Don’t Shake That Sherry at Bodega Delgado Zuleta

(June 2018) Bodega Delgado Zuleta is located on the outskirts of Sanlucar, Spain in an industrial area with plentiful parking. They are one of the largest sherry wineries in Spain, and are the producer of the famous La Goya Manzanilla brand. Their partner winery, Barbiana, is also housed at this complex. Established in 1744, the winery has over 1,000 hectares of vineyards, and produces millions of bottles of wine each year.

I arrived in the afternoon and was met by Eva Jimenez who is a sherry expert living in the area, and also a great tour guide and educator with perfect English speaking skills. She provided a tour of the complete facility, and I was impressed at the many educational posters and sections they had set up in the winery.  It is a great place for someone who is trying to learn about sherry grapes and production.


One of Many Educational Display at Bodega Delgado Zuleta

Don’t Shake That Sherry!

Eva told me a funny and tragic story about a barrel of sherry with flor on top that was set-up as a display. She said she was explaining to a group of visitors how flor is a tiny community of living creatures that grows on top of the wine to protect it and provide it with its distinctive taste, when a man came forward and started shaking the barrel.

“I lunged forward and screamed at him to stop,” she said, “but it was too late. He had mixed all of the flor into the wine and it took months for flor community in the barrel to restore itself.”

“How awful,” I said.  “Why did he do it?”

She shrugged.  “I’m not sure, but I think he thought he was trying to help the wine. Now we no longer leave a single barrel on display, and instead use this more contained version with triple barrels.” (see photo)


Three Contained Sherry Barrels with Flor

Recycling Sherry Barrels with In-house Cooper

One of the fascinating aspects of this visit was the cooperage. I have never visited a sherry cooperage before, and learned that it is a place of the utmost recycling. This is because they must use old barrels to age the sherry. Therefore, they are continually tearing apart old barrels and making new ones. I was able to watch the cooper performing his tasks for a while, and then he stopped and led us to a stack of old dusty sherry barrels in the back of the warehouse.


Making Recycled Sherry Barrels

Unlocking the Ancient Sherry Barrels

Eva explained that this unique stack of black sherry barrels held the private reserve wines of the Zuleta family.  I watched as the cooper unlocked several barrels, and then using a llenenzia, he deftly subtracted some sherry and poured it into wine glasses. We were allowed to taste an amontillado and cream sherry from these ancient casks. The cream sherry was especially delicious with Pedro Ximenez grapes added to the blend.

Private Tasting at Bodega Delgado Zuleta

At the conclusion of the tour, Eva invited me to sit down and taste several different wines.  She also showed me photos of La Goya, who was a famous singer from the early 1900’s.  Highlights from the tasting were:

La Goya – very fresh and elegant with notes of white flowers, green apple, almonds, and a hint of salt. La Goya is always aged 6 to 7 years in cask.  I was surprised at the yellow color of the wine, and the strong floral notes. It was one of my favorite manzanillas on the trip.

Quo Vadis Amontillado (40 years) VORS – Very Old Rare Sherry. Truly delicious with nutty notes, toffee, great acidity, mouthwatering finish.

Monteagvdo Muscatel – tasted liked white chocolate, caramel apples, and cream toffee. Very much a decadent dessert wine.


Private Tasting at Bodega Delgado Zuleta in Sanlucar, Spain

The Quaint Seaside Village of Chipiona

On the drive back to my hotel, I stopped in the quaint seaside village of Chipiona. It has a lovely walking trail along the ocean, a lighthouse, and many tiny cobblestone streets filled with shops and restaurants. In the future it would be a nice place to stay for several nights.


Sea Walk at Chipiona in Spain


Narrow Streets of Chipiona with Shops and Restaurants


Tapas Bar in Chipiona, Spain

Bodega Hidalgo: A Visit to La Gitana Vineyard and the Tambourine Gypsy Lady

(June 2018) I was thrilled when I learned that Fermin Hidalgo, youngest son and director of the family operated Bodega Hidalgo in Sanlucar, wanted me to meet him at the La Gitana Vineyard. The only problem is that both Google and Apple maps do not know where the vineyard is. When I explained this dilemma to Inma at the Wines of Sherry Office, she said “Just look for Exit 17 on the highway between Jerez and Sanlucar. Then you will see a large building surrounded by vineyards with the words “La Gitana” painted on the side of it.”

She was right. The building was very difficult to miss, with bold red lettering. The small narrow dirt road with deep rain-grooved ruts was a little more challenging though, and I had to drive very slowly so as not to destroy the bottom of my rental car.  But eventually I bumped my way into a large rectangle dirt parking area near the vineyard and large winery building. As I opened the car door, I saw several large friendly dogs, and chickens pecking around in the dirt.

Apparently I was early, because there was no one there to greet me, so I wandered over to look at the vineyard and take a few photos. I was amazed to realize that I could see the blue ocean in the distance, and that many of the neighboring properties were covered in bright yellow sunflowers. Just then a small dusty car pulled up, and Fermin jumped out.

“No one ever arrives on time,” he told me after shaking hands and exchanging business cards.  “I’m glad you found us.  Would you like to see the vineyard?”  I nodded excitedly.  This would be my first chance to see a sherry vineyard.


La Gitana Vineyard with Ocean in Distance

The White Chalky Soil of Sherry

As we walked down a slight incline towards the vineyard, I marveled at the white-beige soil surrounding the vines that had absolutely no weeds.  Had the vineyard been sprayed with Round-up, I wondered?  But Fermin quickly squashed this idea when he told me they had been farming their 130 vineyard hectares organically for over 25 years, though were not certified.  The reason there were no weeds is because they machine disked. Then he bent down and started digging in the chalky dirt with his bare hands, and within a few seconds I could see the dampness in the soil (see photo).

“This is a very special soil that allows us to grow vines here successfully,” Fermin explained. “It is called “albaretha” and it absorbs our winter rains and allows our vineyards to survive the hot dry summers.”

We then spent some time examining the palomino vines and developing grape clusters, which looked like small green peas. They had finished bloom, and I was surprised to see how long the clusters were.  The vines appeared very healthy and were planted on 8 feet by 6 feet spacing using VSP trellis.  Fermin explained that they use sulfur, copper, and sexual confusion traps to maintain the health of the vineyard. All pruning is done by hand, there is no irrigation, and they machine harvest around 80% of the vines.

“Do you know why manzanilla from Sanlucar tastes a little salty?” he asked.

“Because it is close to the ocean?” I responded.

“Yes, but it is actually the wind blowing from the ocean that brings salt to the vines and soil. That is why the wine can taste a little salty.” He continued, “Do you know what manzanilla means?”

“No,” I responded.

“It means chamomile, because the wines here not only have a slightly salty taste, but a hint of chamomile and the style is often lighter than fino from around Jerez.”

Next we walked across the parking lot to view another vineyard on a hillside with short head-pruned vines. “Those vines are over 70 years old,” said Fermin. “They only produce around 1500 kilos per hectare, compared to our normal production of 15,000 kilos per hectare. The custom here is to remove vines at age 40, but we have decided to preserve ours. We are about quality, not quantity.  The future of sherry is in the past.”


La Gitana Vineyard with Sunflowers in Distance

Brief History of Bodega Hidalgo and the Gypsy Lady

Bodega Hidalgo started in 1792 and is still family owned today. They are one of the few sherry houses to own all of their own vineyards. Currently they produce around one million bottles per year and are considered to be mid-sized.

Their best known brand is La Gitana, which means “the gypsy lady.” Fermin told me the story of how this brand was born, and it is a little romantic and sultry at the same time. Apparently in the 1800’s the bodega only produced sherry wines in bulk and sold them to other people to bottle and distribute. One of their best customers was a gypsy woman in Malaga.

As Senor Hidalgo, Fermin’s great grandfather, traveled around Spain, he continued to heard about how excellent the sherry wine was that the gypsy woman in Malaga bottled and sold.  Knowing he had produced the wine, he decided to go visit her one day in the 1890’s. Apparently they had an affair that lasted for a number of years and then ended.  However, a decade later when Bodega Hidalgo decided to bottle and sell their own wine, they decided to capitalize on the good reputation of the gypsy wine, and therefore, named the wine La Gitana.  They even commissioned a special portrait of the gypsy lady, which is still on the bottle today.

Winemaking at Bodega Hidalgo

After the vineyard tour, Fermin guided me through the winery where the presses and stainless steel tanks were located.  He explained that they destem and crush the palomino grapes, and use natural yeast. The first fermentation occurs in stainless steel tanks, and when the wine reaches around 5 brix, they transfer it to a second tank and add 15% alcohol using grape spirits.  It is here that the flor community starts developing, covering the wine with a soft white blanket of “flowers” and imparting the fresh taste of chamomile, green apple, and almond.

“The wine stays in these tanks with the flor until December or January,” said Fermin.  Then it is gently transported to their barrel cellar in downtown Sanlucar and pumped into the solera system.


A Tasting of Bodega Hidalgo from the Solera

After touring the winery at the vineyard, I followed Fermin back to Sanlucar so we could visit the headquarters of Bodega Hidalgo in downtown Sanlucar. I was amazed to see that the ancient building was literally in downtown Sanlucar, but Fermin explained that the city had grown up around them over the years. He pointed to the high ceilings with open ventilation, explaining, “We like being close to the sea so the ocean breezes can come in and cool down the temperature in the hot summer.”

We toured the solera cellars, and I was impressed with the beauty of the architecture, the old black barrels, towering support columns, and high ceilings. There were tree shaded courtyards and bountiful pink bougainvillea tumbling down the walls around the winery.

Using a llenenzia, Fermin extracted wine from various tanks, and I did notice the distinctive salty taste in their La Gitana Manzanilla. He explained that the wine tastes different during the four seasons of the year, because the flor community is different.  “For me,” he said, “the Spring time wine is more crisp and light with stronger notes of green apple, while the Autumn wine is a bit heavier with more almond notes.”

Later he treated me to some very old sherries, including a 40 year old Amontillado, named Napoleon that tasted like old madeira with good acid, caramel, salt, and dried orange peel. Next we tasted a 70 year old Palo Cortado, called Wellington It was fuller-bodied, with distinct notes of vanilla, toffee and salt.

We concluded the tour with a visit to the historical office of the bodega, with a lovely antique tile fireplace and an original llenenzia in a frame on the wall.

“Do you know what this is?” asked Fermin.

“A llenenzia,” I stuttered, trying to pronounce the word.

“Yes,” he smiled. “But this is an antique one made of whale bone.  This is how they used to make them. This is one of only five left in the world.”

“Wow,” I said, gazing at the long delicate dipper on the wall, and feeling a sense of awe over the history of this beautiful old Bodega of the Hidalgo’s and the story of the gypsy lady who inspired their famous La Gitana brand.


Fermin Hidalgo with Rare Whalebone Llenenzia

“But do you know what this is?” Fermin asked pointing at a strange round object mounted on the wall.

I shook my head no.

“It is supposedly one of the original tambourines from the gypsy lady.”

I gazed at it in admiration. It was obviously old, with a well-used leather cover and tiny bronze bells. I could imagine the gypsy lady playing it for Fermin’s great grandfather.

Later, as I departed with a box of three bottles of wine that Fermin insisted I try, I couldn’t help but be impressed with the energy and dedication of all of the members of the Hidalgo family who worked to keep this famous old brand alive.


Tasting at Bodega Hidalgo La Gitana

“Wine That Travels” – A Short History of Sherry

(June 2018) It was so exciting to finally arrive in the land of sherry – that famous fabled wine that has traveled the world. We caught an 11:30 flight on Iberia Airlines from Madrid to Jerez, and by 1pm were already departing the small airport in our Hertz rental car. As we drove towards our resort hotel on the ocean just south of Sanlucar, we passed rolling hills covered in bright yellow sunflowers and green verdant vineyards filled with palomino and pedro ximenez grapes.  The blue sky and warm temperatures in the mid 70’s was welcome after the cooler temperatures of Madrid.

After checking into our resort, the Hotel Elba Costa Ballena, my daughter and I headed to the pool and spa, then later out to dinner at a restaurant along the Bajo de Guia in Sanlucar where I ordered a glass of chilled manzanilla sherry (see below).  Gazing out a the bay, I couldn’t help but think of all of the ships carrying sherry that had departed from this port and further south in Cadiz over the centuries.  The history of sherry is one of the most fascinating wine stories in the world.  Following is a brief timeline, based on the history provided by Wines of Sherry.

A Brief Timeline of Sherry History

1100BC – Vines are brought to Spain by the Phoenicians, who called the region “Xera.” Ancient amphora for wine storage have been found near the city of Cadiz.

138BC– Romans come to the region and rename the area “Ceret”. Lucius Columella, born in Cadiz, writes the famous ancient book “De ru Rustica” about how to plant vines and make wine.

100’s BC – Romans began to export the local wine to Rome and other places. It becomes known as the “wine that travels,”  however it was not because it was fortified (distillation was not invented until 800’s). Instead the Romans covered the wine with different substances to protect it from oxygen, such as olive oil, ashes, honey, and resins.

711AD – The Moors come to Spain, and call the area the “Land of Sherish.” Even though the Koran prohibited alcohol, the region was allowed to continue to produce grapes and wine, which was used for raisins to feed the troops and medicine.

800’s – Abu Musa Jabir ibn Hayyan, an Arabic alchemist, designs the alembic pot still to allow distillation of alcohol into spirits. This allowed sherry brandy to be developed, but in the beginning it was primarily used for medicine.

1264 – King Alfonso of Castille reclaims Spain. Exports of sherry wine to England increase when Henry 1 proposes a bartering agreement to trade English wool for sherry. Around the same time, the major grape used to produce sherry was renamed “Palomino” after a military general.

1492 – Sherry voyages to America with Columbus (along with Madeira)

1519 – Magellean sets sail from Sanlucar with “417 wine skins and 257 kegs” of sherry, making sherry the first wine to travel around the world.

1600’s– Sherry begins to be fortified with spirits (brandy) so it will keep better on long sea voyages. The practice is reputed to have been invented by the Dutch and adopted by the British and Portuguese. Sherry, madeira and port benefit greatly from this method.

1770’s  – The solera system is created, based on British consumer desires for a consistent taste and style each year for the different types of sherries. The system also allows the wine to age much longer.

1932 – Sherry achieves DO (Designations of origin) status in Spain

1970’s – Vineyards are overplanted in sherry and prices plummet

2012 to present – There is a resurgence of interest in sherry wines, as international sommeliers and wine buyers rediscover the excellent quality and value of sherry wines. The wide variety of flavors and styles, ranging from bone dry to extremely sweet, makes sherry a very versatile treat!