Bartholomew Estate Winery: Home to History and Hiking

In my new goal to visit at least one new Napa/Sonoma winery each week to support them in reopening during the COVID19 crisis, I booked an appointment to visit Bartholomew Estate in the hills outside the town of Sonoma.  Though I had always meant to visit someday, this seemed to be a great time to do so. The winery is known not only for its elegant wines, but also for being one of the oldest in the state of California. Many people are also attracted to the estate for its numerous hiking trails that wind across the 375 acre property.

Bartholomew Estate. Photo Credit: Hike the Wine

History and Hiking

The property on which Bartholomew Estates is located is the original home of Count Haraszthy, founder of Buena Vista Winery, located next door. Haraszthy established Buena Vista in 1857 and built a beautiful villa. In 1943 the property was purchased by Frank and Antonia Bartholomew. In order to honor the history of the estate, Antonia built a replica of the Haraszthy Villa in the early 1990s in the last years of her life, because the original had burned in the late 1870s.

The Bartholomew’s also established a trust to protect and preserve 375 acres of the property, and give it as a gift to the community with the provision that it be kept in a natural state. Therefore, it is filled with majestic old oak trees, rolling hills, and a stream. Highlights of the park including many beautiful hiking trails and relaxing picnic grounds, which are free of charge to the public. Bartholomew Estate Winery is nestled in the middle of the Park, making it a perfect destination for hikers, picnickers and wine lovers. In fact, its hiking trails are so unique that it is recommended by “Hike the Wine.”

Hiking Trails at Bartholomew Park. Map Credit: BartholomewPark.org

A Relaxing Tasting on Oak Knoll Overlooking the Vineyards

We drove to Bartholomew Estate Winery along a narrow road flanked by tall trees before opening up to vineyards on both sides. Then at a curve in the road, a majestic wooden mansion appeared. It was painted in a warm cream color with two-story wooden pillars gracing the front. Once we parked and read the plaque, we realized this was the restored home of County Haraszthy.

The winery tasting room is behind the mansion in an old stucco building referred to as “The Hacienda,” though it was originally built as a hospital. Today it houses the small winery operation, producing 3500 cases, as well as a charming art gallery and the wine tasting and sales room.  Due to COVID all tastings were outside in a large park area called “Oak Knoll.”

Entrance to Oak Knoll Outdoor Tasting with COVID masks

We approached the check-in desk in our masks and were immediately greeted in a friendly fashion, and then escorted to a table for two under a large oak tree and overlooking the vineyards. It was so relaxing to sink down into the chair and look at the view. We ordered the flight of four wines, and enjoyed the 2018 Sauvignon Blanc, two 2018 Zinfandels from different vineyard blocks, and the 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon.  All wines are grown and made on the Estate’s 22 acres of vineyards, and they were young and fresh, brimming with fruit and elegance.

A Tour of the Cellars with Winemaker Kevin Holt

Though we had booked the basic Oak Knoll tasting, we were thrilled when winemaker, Kevin Holt, strolled up to greet us. He spent some time describing the estate vineyards and explaining how the wines were made, before inviting us to tour the cellar. Putting our masks back on, we followed Kevin to the “Hacienda” and enjoyed a behind-the-scenes look at the many oak barrels that comprised the aging regime for the wine. Kevin believes in using a combination of both French and American oak in his red wines to give them more jazz and personality.

Barrel Room at Bartholomew Estate Winery, Sonoma County, CA

We Will Be Back!

After my first visit to Bartholomew Estate and Park, I know I will definitely be back.  It seems the perfect place to enjoy a morning hike, following by a wine tasting under the oaks, and then a relaxing picnic lunch on the lawn – perhaps even a nap, afterwards…..

Hiking and Yoga in the Vineyards of Burgundy: My Favorite Trails in Vosne Romanee

(Autumn 2016) Probably one of the best things about living in the tiny village of Vosne Romanee in Burgundy was the opportunity to hike through the famous vineyards. Instead of going to the gym, as I would have in California, I took time each day to do some yoga in my small rental house (gite) and hike through the vineyards just outside my door. Sometimes, I also did yoga poses in the vineyards, and took the time to meditate in such beautiful surroundings.

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Roading Leading to Romanee Conti Vineyard and Hillside Trails

Leaving my house, I would turn left and in less than 5 minutes, I was at the intersection of eight of the most famous grand cru vineyards in the world: 1) Romanee Conti – home of the most expensive pinot noir in the world, marked by the famous stone cross; 2) La Tache – my namesake vineyard, 3) Romanee St. Vivant, 4) Richebourg, 5) La Grand Rue; 6) La Romanee – smallest grand cru in Burgundy; 7) Echezeaux and 8) Grands Echezeaux. In addition, there are many famous Premier Cru vineyards, such as Les Chaumes and Les Suchots, as well as delectable Vosne Romanee village vineyards, such as Les Colombiere. I love how the Burgundians name each vineyard, no matter how small.

Hiking Map

Map of Vineyards Near Vosne-Romanee

Multiple Trails through the Vineyards

Over the course of three months, I hiked multiple paths through the vineyards, because there are small roads connecting all of them and climbing to the top of the hill (see map). Also, many of the vineyards are surrounded by small stone walls and marked with stone monuments or crosses. Most have stone name plates as well.

You will not be alone, as the vineyards attract many tourists to take photos in front of the stone cross of Romanee Conti. If you go there, you will probably be handed a smart phone and asked to take a photo of the tourists. This happened many times to me. In addition to tourists, there are many locals who bike, jog, or walk through the vineyards for exercise – just as I did. Following are three of my favorite vineyard hikes.

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Hiking in the Vineyards with View of Vosne-Romanee

  1. Aux Raignots Panoramic View Trail (or the Picnic Table Trail)

If I was craving some good exercise and a great view, I would leave my gite and turn left to walk up the street towards the corner of Le Grand Rue and Romanee St. Vivant vineyards. Then I would continue up the road past Romanee Conti and La Romanee on my left. The road branches to the left as you continue up hill. Halfway up you will come to a stone bench, which is a great place to pause and look at the view, with La Tache spread out below you. Often I observed couples there sharing a glass of wine and/or kissing.

Continue up the hill and make a sharp turn to the right, passing Aux Champs Pedrix Premier Cru vineyard, until eventually the paved road ends and you see a small dirt road at the top of the hill on your right. Follow this to a group of trees with two picnic tables. Then turn to look at a view that will take your breath away. All of Burgundy is spread out below you, and you can easily see Clos de Vougeot museum in the distance. After taking some photos, consider doing some yoga poses and then sit on the picnic table to meditate, as I often did. It is a wonderful place for peace and contemplation.

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Hiking Up to Picnic Tables

  1. The La Tache Trail

If I was in the mood for a shorter hike, I would leave my gite, heading towards the vineyards, but turn left at Rue de La Tache.  I always took the time to stop and enjoy the beauty of the two different sections of La Tache, as well as the pink stucco house with gardens that has a perfect view of this vineyard. One time I saw a horse with plow tilling the soil in La Tache. Then I would continue south past Aux Malconsorts (what a name for a vineyard) and continue walking in the direction of Nuits St. George. After hiking for a mile or so, I would turn around and return to the village in a circular route, turning right at Les Chaumes.

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La Tache Vineyard Name Carved into Stone Wall

    3. Clos de Vougeot Trail

It is about a four mile round-trip hike from Vosne Romanee to the ancient cloister of Clos de Vougeot. For this, I would first walk to the church square in Vosne Romanee, and then turn left, taking the road through the middle of Romanee St. Vivant. When I arrived at the famous cross of Romanee Conti, I would turn right, walking past Les Richebourgs. Then take a right at the next road for a short distance before turning left to cut across the vineyards of Les Suchots and through multiple sections of Echezeaux and Grands Echezeaux. You will see Clos de Vougeot in front of you, rising up through the vines like some ancient ship floating on top of a vineyard sea. One day I hiked this trail in the rain with my friend Barbara, who was visiting from Germany.  We decided to take this fun photo of dancing in the rain on the stone walls of Clos de Vougeot.

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Clos de Vougeot Sailing Across the Vineyards

Other Trails to Hike in Burgundy

In addition to the trails near the village of Vosne Romanee, there are many other hiking trails through the other famous Grand Cru vineyards of Burgundy, including further north near Gevrey Chambertin and south near Puligny-Montrachet. A list of these hiking trails is available at the Beaune-Tourism website.

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My Friend Barbara Dancing in the Rain Near Clos de Vougeot

Burgundy Vineyards Part of Unesco World Heritage

In 2015, UNESCO recognized the vineyards of Burgundy as a Cultural World Heritage site. Also referred to as “climats”, because each vineyard is unique, they are considered to be a “living cultural landscape.” Many were laid out by the monks as long ago as 11th century. Today on the Road of the Grand Crus, there are 1247 “climats”, with many opportunities to hike, bike, or walk through the vineyards.

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With Friend Barbara at Chevaliers-Montrachet